In March I drove down from Chamonix where I was living for the winter to Riglos in Northern Spain. I had heard about a climb called Fiesta De Los Biceps. I did not know anything about the area or climb but I wanted to do it for the name.
Then the more research I did, the better it looked. So I called my mate Chris Bevins and flew into Barcelona for a 4 day flash pump. On the journey down, someone tried to break into my van while I was sleeping in it, and then the next day in Barcelona someone managed to break in through the window and stole quite a lot from my humble home. Great start to the trip! But determined not to let anything dampen my spirits, I drove down to Tarragona to pick Chris up, and when he never came out of the terminal, I knew something was up. He managed to forget his passport at home! He managed to get another flight and was in Barcelona 9 hours later, which gave me some time to make a new window out of acrylic.
We got there late at night and it was great to wake up to an incredible view. I forget the name of the climb we did on the Piton but is was brilliant climbing at around 6c. The climbing was incredibly fluid and the holds were like someone had thrown bags of potatoes at the wall, and the had stuck (although not all of them..).
It was an 8 pitch route and the first climb I had done all winter, so we were knackered by the end of it with such a deep pump it was unreal!
Then with bad weather we had a rest day eating chorizo, and then it was time for the Fiesta. The first pitch is very average but it is 5 star for the next 8 pitches. It is dream climbing, and the most savage pump imaginable whilst climbing on jugs. Near the top it is so steep if feels like you are climbing a roof, and it must be near 45 degrees over hanging. We had so much fun on the wall and it was in the top 5 climbs of my life.
From the name of the climb we had an idea of putting laminated cards on each belay, to keep psyched! I wonder if they are still there. Our friend Hank the Tank Caylor said they were still there 2 weeks later when he did the route, and then Alex Honnold also commented on them as being a bit weird when he solo’d the route.
To finish off the climb, Chris excited in his normal style, jumped off the top, while I walked off the back, getting horribly lost in the process. I promised that next time we go back, I would be jumping as well!
We were lucky with the weather and left the next day when it poured down, but we got everything in a short space of time and it was back off to Chamonix for me and some more skiing.
Riglos, Northern Spain
Length of time: 3 days
The Goal: Free climb Fiesta De Los Biceps